A lake chronicle, Encounter with the lake’s craftsmen

For chef Jean Sulpice, who hails from the shores of Lake Aix-Les-Bains, Lake Annecy has a very special flavour. A key element of the inn's décor, the lake nourishes his soul and inspires his cooking on a daily basis. Behind the scenes of everyday life on the lake  meet Florent Capretti, a professional fisherman who seeks to extract incredible treasures from its depths. A chronicle of a lake and the men that live from it.

Vue aérienne lac d'Annecy et baie de Talloires

Auberge du Père Bise is a bridge between the world “above” and the world “below”. Located in Talloires, in the “world’s most beautiful bay” according to Sir Winston Churchill, and surrounded by elegant Alpine peaks, the inn represents a meeting point between water and land. The quietness of Lake Annecy’s waters stunningly contrasts with the sharp rocky ridge of the “Dents de Lanfon” overlooking the inn. Formed eighteen thousand years ago by the gradual melting of the great Alpine glaciers, the Lake has, since 1950, recovered its original integrity to become one of the purest in Europe. Its water is drinkable and meets almost 90% of the needs of inhabitants in the Annecy area.
Its depths provide a unique environment for the numerous species that populate it: Arctic char, fera, pike, trout, perch, but also monkfish and crayfish. On top of the great care given to water quality, respect for its fauna and the associated fishing have become paramount initiatives. All catches are measured, tracked and monitored by the lake police who do not take these precious resources lightly.

Florent Capretti pêcheur sur le lac d'Annecy

Today, while more than a thousand casual fishermen line up around the lakeshore, only two professional fishermen have the privilege of operating directly from their boats.
Florent Capretti is one of them. A former mountain worker, used to hard work at high altitudes, he is not afraid of waking up at dawn. For twelve years now, this job of passion has granted him a priceless freedom. He is particularly sensitive to the lake’s “movements” and to the species that populate it. He is attentive to reproduction cycles and aware of appropriate and respectful fishing techniques. His extensive know-how and knowledge of the environment, combined with the specificity of the habitat, all contribute to the exceptional quality of his fishing produces. Fish populations differ from one lake to the other. Florent Capretti points out that in Annecy, the fera, which comes from the Salmonidae family, follows a natural reproduction cycle, with no fry, which is not the case in neighbouring lakes. Fish characteristics depend on water composition, and Florent notes that, for instance, the flesh of a fera from Lake Annecy is firmer than one from Lake Geneva. Such nuances and countless others contribute to the uniqueness of his produces.
Behind the legacy fisherman for Auberge du Père Bise, it was only natural he met with Jean during the handover, in 2017. The two men have built a trust-based relationship, as they share a taste for effort and skills. Jean describes him as someone who is whole, straightforward, respectful of reproduction circuits, and whose main concern is to satisfy the clients through great care given throughout the fishing process. As ingenious as he is meticulous, he has perfected a comprehensive system from the time the traps and nets leave the water until they are unloaded on land, to optimise his efforts and spare the fish and crayfish unnecessary stress.

"On Lake Annecy, fishing is a treasure hunt with variable spoils, but Florent has long accepted its rules."

Jean believes such close relationship with producers is essential. It ensures and validates the quality of the raw material, and represents one of the first ingredients to a quality meal. These morning jaunts are also magnificent excuses to escape and recharge batteries in the middle of nature, surrounded by people who share a deep connection with their surroundings. An indispensable jolt of energy before taking on the “marathon” of two services a day.
On Lake Annecy, fishing is a treasure hunt with variable spoils, but Florent has long accepted its rules: be satisfied with what the lake has to offer without distorting the balance of its ecosystem, enjoy the peace and silence of the waves, and live in the moment. A form of wage that no currency could compete with. Jean shares this sensitivity. Water evokes the Yin energy, soft and enveloping, which contrasts with the Yang, sharp and sometimes austere from the mountains. It soothes and inspires him. It reminds him of his background, of his childhood on the shores of Lac du Bourget, of his parents and grandparents who also were restaurant owners, intimately linked to this Savoy lake and to the cuisine it inspires.

"Be content with what the element to offer without disguising the rules of balance, enjoy the peace and silence of the waves, and live in the moment."

Whether on the boat with Florent or enjoying a panoramic view from a mountain pass, Jean sees the lake’s nuances of jade and tone variations as an invitation to create new declinations of flavours. The wide range of viewpoints offered by the lake’s surroundings is met by the diversity of subtle light fluctuations flooding the inn. Much to the delight of its residents as they enjoy delicious fine bites. For the chef, these subtle emotions are in perfect harmony with the refinement of his dishes. Delicacy of the flesh and textures and cooking precision are some of the challenges his teams have to deal with on a daily basis. Whether it is through the use of Arctic char, spruce butter, or the unmistakable fera cooked in watercress water, creativity is always at the service of the terroir. An approach in line with the logic of the “soil” and those who take care of it, in harmony with great cycles and seasonality.

At Auberge du Père Bise, tasting lake produces means tasting the diversity of landscapes that surround it, and enjoying the fifty shades of jade that adorn it. A unique experience that starts with craftsmen like Florent Capretti.